Archives For September, 2007

If you’ve ever been on a Pelni boat in ekonomi class, then you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about. The toilets and showers smell and are often flooded, the food doesn’t taste of much and doesn’t look very appetizing, you sleep with 50 other people in the same room for days and just trying to get on the boat, or off it for that matter, can turn out to be a near death experience.

So why do that to myself?

• It’s cheap!
  I paid just 140.000 Rp from Maumere to Makassar, a 36 hour trip, not counting the nine hours I had wait at the harbour for the bloody boat to turn up.
• It’s safe!
  The ships are proper german-built cruise liners, minus the luxury, but with a distinct Titanic feel to them. Nevertheless, you might hear occasionally of a capsized ferry, but I have never heard of a sunken Pelni ship.
• It’s an experience!
  You’re more than likely going to be the only foreigner, or ‘bule’, on a huge ship and you’ll be the talk of the day or however long the journey lasts. Want to feel like a celebrity? This is your chance without resorting to Big Brother and the likes.

And that’s just a few of the many reasons…

Liked the teaser? Read more…

Dili, the young capital of Timor Leste, is a bustling and vibrant city. At least during the day, that is. When night falls then gangs roam around, preying on the unlucky people still outside. Or so we have been told. To me it seemed pretty safe at night. But then, maybe we were lucky?

The whole economy not only of Dili, but of all of East Timor, is fueled by money provided by the UN and all the various NGOs. Everything here, from basics like food to activities like diving, is quite expensive, again because of the UN and NGO personnel, who just write it off as expenses. Which makes me wonder what happens when all of them pull out?

During the day every second car you see is a Toyota Landcruiser with the UN logo on the side. Australian soldiers in full battle gear come by your guest house for a quick beer and everywhere you pay with US dollars, which is, for now at least, the official currency.

I like Dili a lot actually, the people here are really friendly and seem to be hopeful to put all the troubles behind them. The whole place has an atmosphere of departure into a brighter future about it. At the same time, though, there are still many tent camps scattered around town, filled with refugees and, obviously, the UN is still here and needed. For a little taste of Dili, here’s a slideshow:

Yesterday I was involved in a motorbike accident in Kupang, West Timor. Basically, a twelve year old kid drove straight into me, while I was indicating to go right. He was way too fast and he didn’t have a drivers license. Both of us had friends on the back, but luckily nobody got hurt apart from a few bruises and scratches. But this post isn’t actually about the accident. There was never any doubt in anybodys mind, that I was to blame whatsoever. Shit happens…

All of us went back to my guest house, where the owner of my bike tried to sort out the whole mess. He thought the damage to his bike will cost about 350.000 Rp (about 30 EUR or 35 USD) to repair. There was another foreigner present, who suggested that I pay for the damage, since I can afford it, whereas the parents of the kid will most likely have a hard time coming up with that kind of cash, it being almost a month’s salary. Now, I know that’s a lot of money for an indonesian family, but I think if I would have paid it would give everybody a totally wrong picture. He’s a tourist with lot’s of money, so never mind my own responsibility.

I didn’t like the way this guy was talking to me and personally, I think he’s a wanker, to put it bluntly. He got me thinking though, and I was wondering what other travelers out there think. Is it alright as a traveler to pay for damage you did not cause, but were involved in, so that a local family in a third world country does not have an additional burden on their wallet?

Lamalera, Lama meaning feeling or blade and Lera meaning sun, is situated on the southern side of the mountainous island of Lembata, which is part of the Solor Archipelago. It can only be reached by taking a bus, which is a converted truck, from Lewoleba. The drive takes about three and a half hours, mainly due to the bad roads, but is nevertheless quite scenic and adventurous. The roads can be extremely steep and narrow and there are usually many people sitting on the roof of the bus because of the restricted space inside.

Sam, an american backpacker I traveled with at the time, and I arrived in the little whaling village around four in the afternoon on a Saturday in late August 07. We soon found out, that the fishermen do not go out to sea past 4 pm and neither do they work on a Sunday, when the whole community is going to church and rests. So instead of joining the whaling boats the next day as we had hoped, we walked for about half an hour to a nearby beach and a big bat cave and spent a relaxed day out there.

Liked the teaser? Read more…