If, like me, you only get a 7 day transit visa for Iran and, again like me, you find out that the money you budgeted with only lasts for 5 days, there’s no need to dispair. It can be done while still seeing something from the country, mainly Yazd and Esfahan.

DAY 1

After taking the overnight bus from Quetta to the border at Taftan have one last milky chai (from now on it’s only sugar) and then proceed through customs so you,re one of the first in line as soon as the Iranian border opens. On the Iranian side you’ll have to wait for your very own and very useless police bodyguard who’ll (or some of his buddies) escort you all the way to the bus terminal in Zahedan (100.000 Rial), where you’ll arrive just in time for the 2 o’clock overnighter to Yazd (60.000 Rial). You don’t really seem to have a choice at what time you want to leave.

DAY 2

You will arrive very early, around 4 am, in Yazd, so either get a room (Silk Road Hotel is great value for money; 50.000 for a dorm/30.000 for a buffet breakfast) and pay for this night as well or find a cozy spot for like 4 hours and then check in to save yourself one nights accomodation. Then you have the whole day to explore the many sights of Yazd, like Alexander’s Prison and various beautiful mosques, and enjoy the vibrant atmosphere of the old city itself.

DAY 3

On the 3rd day take a bus to Esfahan (4–5 hours, 50.000 Rial) and get yourself a dorm bed at the Amir Kabir Hostel, Esfahan’s only (not so) budget option at 60.000 Rial a night. Do some emailing and wander around the close-by park around sunset when the colorful lights come on.

DAY 4

Check out at midday, store your bag and explore Esfahan until your bus leaves to Tabriz at 18:30 (115.000 Rial, 15 hours). You can book your ticket at reception. Book early to make sure you have a spot.

DAY 5

You arrive in Tabriz around 7 am. Then get either on a bus, which leaves at midday, or fork out a bit more for a shared taxi (80.000 Rial) to the border at Bazargan and cross into Turkey.

Altogether I spent exactly 60 EUR in 5 days in Iran. I arrived in Turkey with no cash whatsoever and had to hitchhike 40 km to the nearest ATM. It’s probably better to not do it like me and budget maybe 15 EUR a day and have some money left over to change into Turkish lira. 10 of these get you to said ATM.

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The first visa to get is the Pakistani one. There are rumours around that you’re more likely to get an Iranian visa once you’ve already been approved for Pakistan. The only place to apply for both those visas in India is in New Delhi. Most of the embassies are situated in a district called Chanakyapuri. First, go to your own embassy and get a letter of recommendation for each country. In my case that set me back 20 EUR or 1320 Rs each.

With that letter, a couple passport photos, your passport obviously and a visa fee of 1800 Rs (in my case; it can be as high as 6000 Rs for some nationalities) you then go to the Pakistani High commission. Get yourself the necessary papers at window 5 and then take an Auto Rickshaw to the bank round the block (you will get a piece of paper with the address on it). Pay in the money, go back to the embassy and approach one of the guys sitting around with their typewriters. Handwritten applications will not be accepted. Get everything filled out and hand in the application. You will then receive a date for an interview on the next day.

Dress properly for the interview (and for the visits to both embassies). Long trousers for the guys and covered shoulders and no leg for the girls. The interviewer has the power to decline your application. During that interview you’ll be asked a few questions about why and where you want to go. It’s more of a conversation really than a proper interview. The guy was really nice and can give you advice as well on the security situation on the places you plan to visit. Remember that the Taliban has a strong presence in some parts of Pakistan. All in all it only lasted for around ten minutes and much of that conversation was spent on what my family in Germany is up to. The next day you can then pick up your visa.

Once you have your passport back you can go straight to the Iranian embassy, which is close to Connought Circus. You will need your recommendation letter and two passport photos. The Iranian embassy is open until 2 pm, so there’s no need to rush. There pick up your application, fill it out (handwritten is fine) and hand it in. You might then have to wait for an hour or so. You will be called to the window with directions to another bank just round the corner. Walk over there and pay in the visa fee (2040 Rs in my case). At the moment the embassy in Delhi only gives out 7 day transit visas. Should you need a 30 day visa apply either in your home country or you can try in Islamabad. Because of the danger to foreigners when crossing overland from Pakistan into Iran (mainly kidnapping) some embassies in Pakistan, including the German one, will not give out recommendation letters. Check beforehand or you might be stranded in Pakistan. Go back to the embassy, hand in the bank receipt and then you only have to wait five days for your visa to be approved.

Another option for a longer visa is to apply through online Iranian visa agencies, like iranianvisa.com. The problem here is that you need to pay in advance. When you search on the net you can find both positive and negative experiences with all these sites. I read about some people having to pay 1000 USD and more in advance for pre-bookings of hotels and transport. Once your application there has been processed the agency will send a code to the embassy and then, in theory, it should only take 24 hours for the visa to be issued. While I applied for my visa I met an English guy who had waited already 6 weeks for his code. In the end he gave up and decided to fly to Turkey, so be aware of what you’re getting into should you decide on the agency approach.

Because of a few bank holidays, German and Indian ones, and really inconvenient weekends it took me 18 days to sort out both visas and it set me back 6480 Rs in visa related fees, 720 Rs for Rickshaws, 4500 Rs for accommodation and maybe 800 Rs for lassis.

German Embassy
No 6/50 G Shantipath
Chanakyapuri, 110021
New Delhi

PakistanHigh Comission
No 2/50 G Shantipath
Chanakyapuri, 110021
New Delhi

Iranian Embassy
5, Barakhamba Road
110001
New Delhi

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Wherever there are people with money, there will be other people trying to take some of that money away. Sometimes this is especially true when you are travelling. You are far away from home and thus you might seem an easy prey.

In 2001 I met a young german backpacker, let’s call him Hans, in the departure hall of Denpasar Airport on Bali. We were both waiting for the same flight to Darwin, so after a while he came over and we started chatting. He seemed a bit nervous and soon after he wanted to hear my opinion about something that had happened to him the night before.

He was just on the way out to get some food, when he was invited to join a few indonesian guys, who were drinking arrak near the reception of his guesthouse. They all got drunk and one of the indonesians, Bun, suggested to go to a bar and later to a nightclub. On the way to the bar Hans was asked if he’d mind if they pick up one of Bun’s friends. Once there, they found a game of poker under way. There was loads of money on the table, lots of banter going back and forth and Hans decided he wanted to watch the cardgame. After a while Bun’s friend had lost almost all of his money and Bun told Hans that this was to be the last game; then they could all go get some drinks. Then sudenly the banter turned to angry discussion. Hans was told that Bun’s friend wanted a chance to win all his money back and eventually his opponent agreed. Cards were dealt, bets were raised. Then Hans was called over to the table. He was shown a hand that apparently couldn’t lose and asked if he wanted to invest some money. Eventually he was persuaded to get all his cash from the guesthouse, close to 1000 USD. On his return the other player got angry again and told Hans he couldn’t come up with that much cash tonight. And the next day he was flying out to Darwin. Coincidentally on the same flight as Hans. So eventually it was agreed to finish the game in Australia. Bun’s friend was paid out and the rest of the money, plus a credit card as security against the cash, and the cards were sealed in different envelopes and entrusted into Bun’s safe keeping. They were all to meet the next day at the airport. Only Hans turned up.

Hans could have done quite a few things differently. For starters, you do not get completely wasted with people you don’t really know and don’t let yourself agree to things that feel a bit dodgy just out of a false sense of friendship. Hans had the chance to just walk away, yet he chose to return with all his money. He got greedy and was out for a quick buck. And that is exactly what those con artists are hoping for. Do not get drawn into their game. You can only lose.

Thankfully, those stories are quite rare and not everybody is as gullible as Hans, but still these things happen. Most of them on a much smaller scale, like being sold a fake bus or ferry ticket or being charged far too much for a certain service. I once paid 20 USD more to get a 2-month visa for Laos instead of just the normal 1-month one, only to find out at the border that there is no such thing as a 2-month visa. I even had a stamp in my passport saying that I’m good for two months! If you travel for long enough you will get ripped off eventually. Maybe getting ripped off is one of those travel rites you actually have to go through to become a true traveler! But it’s up to you to decide how much cash and pride you will lose. Just have some common sense!

When you do get ripped off, then get over it. Shit happens. Meeting the locals is a great experience, and it should be one of the reasons why you travel, so don’t spoil it by thinking that everybody is out to get you! The majority of the locals you will meet are good and honest people! Learn from your mistakes and the next time maybe you will win…

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Here’s some points you might want to consider, especially if you’re a firsttimer:

1. The Decision to go Travelling:

   This might seem to be quite an easy point. Believe me, the first time you decide to go on a long-haul trip is the hardest. You might have an apartment, a car, an unwilling partner, parents, friends and/or relatives that want to discourage you from going away or a well paid job. It might seem quite daunting as well to leave all your familiar surroundings for an extended length of time.
   All these things are quite easily solved though:

   • Rent out your apartment (it’s an extra income, while on the road or it continues to pay for your morgage). Maybe the new tenant wants to rent the place fully furnished. If not you can store your stuff someplace, or sell off as much as you can. You can always buy new things when you get back home.
   • Sell your car or find a place somewhere to store it.
   • If you managed to secure a great job once, then you can do it again. A sabbatical is quite common now as well, plus visiting different countries and cultures can only look good on your cv.
   • If you have a partner that does not want to join you, then this might be a problem. You can always compromise and cut the length of the trip. A strong relationship should withstand being a few months apart. Think of it that way. If you don’t go travelling, although you really want to, then this can’t be good for the relationship, can it?
   • As for the last point, just take a few pictures of your family with you and maybe some other things that remind you of home. Ask friends and family to come see you at some point. Call home from time to time and keep in contact with emails.

2. Setting a date for Departure

   should be the next point on the agenda! Many people just talk about going away. They tell you that they want to do the exact thing like you and tell you stories about how they almost went travelling. What they probably did wrong was not setting a date. Make sure to give you enough time to sort out your stuff. Pick a realistic date. Make sure you know how much money you want to take with you and how long it will take you to save up that amount.

3. Book your Flight

   This is an important step. It basically means that you’re committed to going away. Either that or throwing away the money paid for your ticket. You should do this as soon as you’ve picked a date. Remember that tickets are only valid for maximum one year, so if you stay longer then book one way. Doing this is usually a bit more expensive, but at the same time it gives you more flexibility. Plans always change and you might end up somewhere you never thought you’d visit. Then one way tickets might actually save you some money!!
   I’ve found STA Travel a good place to start hunting for good flight deals, but there’s loads of other options out there on the net. Take your time to shop around and grab the best offer.

4. Get a Visa

   You might actually want to do this before you book a flight. Then again, depending on where you go, you might not even need a visa or you can get a visa on arrival. Just to be on the safe side, see for yourself. Consulate or immigration web pages should have the relevant information. Nowadays you can even get online working holiday visas within a day, so don’t worry too much about it, unless you have reason to believe there might be some problems. Let’s have a look at some of these problems:

   • You might not get a visa for some Muslim countries if you have an Israeli visa in your passport. Harsh, I know.
   • If you’ve been to a TBC high risk country for more than 3 months, then you need to supply a chest x-ray for working holiday visas to Australia and New Zealand.
   • Depending on your country of origin you might need to provide proof that you are able to finance your stay (if you’re from one of the so-called industry-nations then don’t worry about this)
   • It’s been known that Irish people could not get a visa on arrival for Indonesia and were not allowed to board the plane unless they could provide an Indonesian visa stamp in their passports.
   • For most countries your passport needs to be valid for at least another 6 months. It’s probably better getting a new one if you only have a year or so left on it.
   • Regulations change, so if you are unsure about anything, go online and check it out…

5. Get some Shots!

   Make sure all your regular vaccinations, tetanus for example, are up to date. Then, depending on where you’re headed, you need to get some special shots:

   • You definitely need Hepatitis A+B. This is a combo shot and consists of 3 separate jabs. You need to leave 4 weeks between the first and the second and to get a 10year protection you need a third shot 6 months after that.
   • If you intend to go to rural areas in Asia then you should consider getting inoculated against Japanese Enzephalitis. Also consists of 3 separate jabs. The second one needs to be done either 7 or 14 days after the first and the last on day 28 after the first.
   • Going to northern Africa, India or Southeast Asia? If you answered yes, then you probably need a jab for Typhoid. It’s only one shot and it gives 80% protection. I was one of the unlucky 20%. Believe me, you do not want to get sick with typhoid fever, unless you like pain.
   • If you’re visiting tropical Africa or South America, then Yellow Fever inoculation is a must. It’s only one shot, protection starts 10 days after the shot and lasts for 10 years.
   • As for malaria medication: I don’t take it. I usually have some emergency pills with me, that will get me to the next hospital. taking them regularly made me always feel hungover, paranoid and borderline schizophrenic for a few days. It’s my own personal choice though.
   • IMPORTANT: You need to see a properly certified doctor. He or she will tell you what shots you really need. In some countries, like Germany, there are tropical institutes that are specialized on travel inoculations. After a shot you might feel a bit dizzy, unwell or even sick and the spot where you were injected might hurt for a few days.

6. Pack your Gear!!

   Personally I think a backpack is the only viable option to carry around your stuff, so make sure to get a sturdy one. One that withstands the forces of nature, being thrown around, sat on, rained on, stomped on by angry water buffaloes or peed on by silly dogs. The smaller the size of the thing the healthier your back will be after a long walk searching for a spare guesthouse room. Less is more! If in doubt don’t take it with you. It’s better to wash your shirts more often than to carry a supply for 2 whole weeks. This is hard to do if you’re a girl, I understand that *Evil grin, which immediately gets followed by realization that one made grave mistake writing this, but now has to live with the consequences*, but try to keep everything to a minimum. Here’s some more stuff you should consider:

   • Pack some medical supplies. Just the basics should be enough. You can buy whatever else you’ll need when you actually need it.
   • A large sarong type thingy is a good alternative to your usual towel. It’s lightweight and dries within 5 minutes in the sun.
   • Pack a deck of cards, a small chess set or something similar. You’d be surprised how much need you’ll have for that.
   • A small wine opener is a must.
   • Well, these were just some suggestions. It’s up to you what to pack, but remember that you have to lug it around as well.

7. Miscellaneous Stuff

   Almost there. Just a few more bits of advice.

   • If you carry dive equipment or other bulky stuff, then you’re likely to carry more weight than is allowed by your carrier. You can always scam your way on board without having to pay for excess luggage. Just tell the check-in guy that you called their hotline a couple days ago and they said it was alright. Check in early as well, as the check-in people have more leeway then.
   • Don’t forget your passport or tickets!
   • Fly late afternoon or early evening. That way you won’t feel so guilty about emptying the plane’s alcohol supplies.
   • Don’t listen to me on that last one. Alcohol dehydrates you and you’ll be a lot more jetlagged, not to mention the hangover. But still, it’s for free…
   • Take some tissues with you to the airport. There’s probably people needing those. The longer you stay away the more you’ll be needing.
   • Have at least a vague idea about where you’ll be staying for the next few days and how to get from the airport to the guesthouse

So, that’s it but keep in mind that this list is by no means exhaustive. Plans change. All the time. So just go with the flow and enjoy yourself.

See you out there, people…

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